Cafe Campagne, Seattle

You know very well that in '82 there was a drought in Bourgogne. The locals dubbed it the year of the raisin. And that wine wasn't sold by the case, only the bottle.

Niles Crane on the '82 Chambolle-Musigny

I wonder what the corkmaster would think of the oeufs en meurette at Cafe Campagne, 1600 Post Alley (corner of Pine Street), Seattle, WA, Tel +1 206 728 2233? Drizzled with a sticky, rich, red-wine-fois-gras sauce, it was certainly better than the "real thing" I tried in Cluny last year. Maybe they add a splash of '82 burgundy to give it that raisiny edge?



Maybe not. Whatever they do, it works. The eggs were a little under-poached, but otherwise this is a flawless dish. Thick, crunchy garlic-brioche-toast base (which they called a crouton). Two poached eggs. A sprinkling of onion, bacon and mushrooms. All smothered in the aforementioned sauce. A must-try dish if you're brunching in Seattle.

Other dishes are a little less exciting. The Omelette Choisy, for example, was a slightly overcooked herb-chevre omelette served with a chicken and pork sausage, a few chunks of potato and some dry baguette. Order that one and you'll probably need a Kir or two to wash it down. Or a Kir Royale. Or, if you're feeling innovative, a Kir du Soleil, with mandarine liqueur. Never heard of that one before.

If you're lucky, food and drinks will be served by a very spunky waitress, so make sure to order just one item at a time, to keep her coming back.

16/20 "oueffs en meurette"