Blue Train, Melbourne

Seriously, who eats salad for breakfast? Apart from Winston Churchill, Kelly's pet guinea pig, I mean? A splash of green is one thing, but half a plate of lettuce? It looked like someone had up-ended Schapelle Corby's body bag on my eggs. Welcome to the Blue Train, Southgate, Melbourne, Tel +61 3 9696 0440.



Actually, the presentation of my Eggs Benedict was pretty good. The real problem was the taste. There was a distinct cheap-and-nasty white processed pepper flavour permeating the hollandaise. Blue Train has a long history of cheap prices. But this processed pepper slip made the food taste cheap too, which is unfortunate. The eggs themselves were a little under-done, but otherwise good, and the grilled ham and muffins were fine.

As a venue, Blue Train has been variously described as "mega-cafe" and "peoples cafe" for its size and diverse clientele. I remember it as a pioneer of what I call Brady Bunch Revival - the school of interior design that likes to stick an exposed stone feature wall in every fitout. I reckon every second cafe or office foyer tarted up in the last couple of years has at least a splash of Brady Bunch rocks. Blue Train was way ahead of its time. It also has excellent views across the river to the city.

In two words, this place is cheap and cheerful. The food is generally cheap. The staff are generally cheerful. Don't be put off by the designer-sloppy dress code, tatts, nose-rings, toungue-studs, etc. That's just the Blue Train staff uniform.

12/20 "cheap and cheerful"