Fenix, Richmond

If you're about to battle the weekend hordes at Ikea, but you're too late for the mega-bargain breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausages, tomato and coffee for $2.50), don't fret. Wander down to the river and treat yourself to some free range eggs at Fenix, 680 Victoria Street, Richmond, Tel +61 3 9428 3699. It'll cost you a few extra bucks, but it's worth every cent.



Perched above the delightfully brown waters of the Yarra, Fenix disproves the rule that you can't get decent food and a decent view in once place. Grab a table on the terrace, relax, and watch the world peddle/paddle by.

Despite being a card-carrying member of the deconstruction school of molecular gastronomy, Raymond Capaldi's breakfast offerings are pretty tame. There's no blackberry omelette with parsnip ice-cream and blue-cheese chocolate sauce on this menu. Nonetheless, the standard breakfast fare is done pretty well, and the service is very good.

I went for the Fenix breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon and roasted tomato, with a few pork snags on the side. The eggs were rich and creamy, but too much like a pile of slop for top marks. The bacon was OK, but I prefer my pig charred. And the toast was plonked on top of the rest... like a cherry on a scoop of ice-cream. Maybe this was the deconstructionist touch?

The Eggs Benedict were good, as were the home-made hash browns, although both were slightly underdone. Other tempting options included a three cheese grilled omelette, and a cassoulet of haricot beans, chorizo sausage and fried free range eggs. The ricotta hotcakes with honeycomb butter and fresh banana also sounded good.

Last, but by no means least, the Lavazza coffee was excellent.

Eggs and a coffee will set you back around 16 bucks. Admittedly more than Ikea's $2.50 loss leader, but good value nonetheless.

15/20 "location, location"